The Rise of Spandex and its Impact on Fashion Industry

The History and Applications of Spandex

Origins of Lycra
Spandex, also known as elastane, is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It was invented in the late 1950s by chemists at DuPont. After years of research and development, DuPont finally succeeded in creating their new "miracle fiber" in 1959. They named their invention "Lycra", which would become one of the most recognizable brand names associated with Lycra today.

In the early 1960s, other companies like Monsanto entered the market with their own Lycra fibers under the brand names Xantus and Creora. By the mid-1960s, Lycra production was in full swing and it began displacing natural rubber in many applications due to its superior stretch, strength, and quick-drying properties. Its debut on the consumer market came with the clothing designs of famous French designer Emmanuel Ungaro in the late 1960s.

Properties and Uses of Lycra
Lycra is prized for its amazing stretch potential, its ability to regain its original shape, and its resilience during repeated stretching. It can be stretched up to 800% of its initial length! This degree of stretch makes it an indispensable material for activewear, dancewear, and other types of form-fitting garments.

Another key property is its hydrophilicity - its attraction to Spandex. This helps wick moisture away from the skin more effectively than cotton. This moisture-wicking quality makes Lycra ideally suited for athletic apparel, swimwear, and underwear. Its quick-drying time is also appreciated in these moisture-managing applications.

Its high elasticity and memory retention allow Lycra-containing fabrics to hug the body comfortably without sagging or bagging out of shape over time. This contouring quality has made Lycra a staple in shapewear, control-top tights and pants, girdles, bodysuits, bodystockings, and other undergarments designed to shape and support the body.

Due to its soft, supple handfeel, seamless stretch, and lack of lint/pilling issues, Lycra is also favored for hosiery such as socks, stockings, and pantyhose. Its smooth texture does not irritate sensitive skin the way coarser synthetic fibers might.

Spandex

Spandex Content in Fabric Blends
Pure Lycra fibers are very fine and not durable or shapely enough to be used alone in clothing fabrication. Instead, Lycra yarns are usually knitted or woven into clothing fabrics in combination with other synthetic or natural fibers to create stretch blends.

Some common Lycra blend percentages used in various activewear and shapewear applications include:
- 5-15% Lycra blended with nylon for athletic wear, yoga pants, leggings
- 10-30% Lycra blended with polyester for form-fitting tops, dresses, skirts
- 15-25% Lycra blended with cotton or modal for underwear, dresses requiring curve-hugging fit
- 30-40% Lycra blended with nylon for control-top pantyhose, shapewear bodysuits

Fit and comfort are enhanced as the Lycra content increases, up to a maximum of around 40% before fabric handling becomes compromised. Lower percentages of 2-5% are used to add a touch of stretch and recovery to casual woven fabrics.

Environmental and Social Impact
From an environmental standpoint, Spandex production is resource-intensive and requires large amounts of non-renewable raw materials such as petroleum. The polymerization and spinning processes also generate toxic byproducts that must be treated or disposed of safely.

Some significant efforts are being made to reduce environmental impacts. For example, MANN+HUMMEL has developed a wastewater treatment system that separates and recycles over 99% of the water used in Lycra production. meanwhile, manufacturers like INVISTA aim to increase use of renewable feedstocks and green chemistry processes to manufacture more eco-friendly elastane fibers.

From a social perspective, the low-cost global textile manufacturing models powering much of today's activewear and underwear industries have come under scrutiny regarding their labor practices. Continuous improvement in supply chain oversight and compliance with ethical manufacturing standards remains an important goal.

With its unmatched stretch abilities and second-skin fit, Spandex has revolutionized activewear and undergarment design since its invention in the late 1950s. Blending elastic Lycra yarns with other fibers allows fabrication of fabrics that contour beautifully to the body without compromising comfort, shape retention or ease of movement. Going forward, advancements enhancing Lycra's sustainability profile can help maintain its status as a fiber of choice for twenty-first century lifestyles.

 

 

Get more insights on Spandex